The tip of the shaft, once you determine the proper tip trimming and trim accordingly, needs to be abraded to allow the epoxy to adhere to the shaft and hold the shaft into the head.
Your goal is to roughen up the shaft enough so the epoxy will adhere to the shaft, however not so much as to damage the shaft.
Steel shafts may need to be sanded down considerably in order to fit into the hosel of the club head. Often there are several layers of thick chrome on a steel shaft that need to be removed before the .370 shaft will fit into the .370 hosel bore.
On a graphite shaft, you will need to remove some of the paint, however you do not want to cut so deeply into the shaft that you damage any of the graphite fibers. Be careful with graphite shafts and ultra-thin steel shafts as over prepping is one of the lead causes of shaft breakage in finished clubs.
With standard steel shafts, you can be more aggressive than with graphite shafts, and it's not uncommon to use a dremel tool or a drill with a sanding wheel attachment, a bench grinder or a vertical belt sander to roughen up the shaft surface to the depth of the hosel.
Most common in the home shop will be abrasion with sandpaper. This is most easily accomplished by clamping the shaft in a vice, and using a strip of sandpaper like a shoe-shine polishing cloth to roughen up the shaft's surface.
| Select the video image to
see an example of the use of a rough grit sandpaper for abrading the tip of a
steel shaft. |
|
Another method for abrading steel shafts is by using a common metal file.
With graphite shafts, you will want to be more gentle with the shaft tip so as not to damage any of the graphite fibers. You want to remove only a very small amount of shaft material other than paint, when preparing a graphite shaft tip for installation.
Common methods include hand sanding with medium grit paper, filing with a metal file, using a belt sander with a fine sanding belt, using a bench grinder, dremel tool or flap wheel sander - all equipped with nylon wheels or sanding strips.
Regardless of which method you use - and there are many deviations that will work just as well - be sure you remove only enough material from steel or graphite shafts to get a good bond with the epoxy, and not so much that you weaken the shaft tip.
Mark the shaft first for the correct hosel depth - including 1/2 of the length of the ferrule - then abrade the shaft to your mark. You may wish to use a piece of masking tape to mark the shaft as it will not wear off with sanding and is a certain reminder of where to stop the abrading process.
Tim Hewitt, myOstrich Golf
Video segments are compliments of SMT Golf.







